The first installment of ETF Wines (not to be confused with exchange-traded funds) is the result of a capricious request; I was asked to guide a casual blind tasting experience as the summer season drew to a close. After visiting South Africa’s Western Cape and Klein Karoo during the spring of 2023, I had already began composing a shortlist of expressions from a few wine houses and smaller producers that I had visited and enjoyed.

However, my aspiration to share some of the wines I’d recently discovered was slightly subdued. Unfortunately the impromptu tasting event, hosted by a local business, was limited to only available selections from a big box retailer. Swallowing my pride, I realized that an “Easy to Find” format is something that the casual or occasional wine drinker might actually be missing. To be clear, there’s nothing wrong with buying wine from larger retailers; For the average consumer, there are quality, new-to-market and affordable wines available at most local grocery stores and beverage outlets. Anyway, if you’re simply having fun with friends or just beginning to explore South African wines, any of these ETFs might be your gateway glass to a lekker palate. For a blind tasting these styles were easy to identify, offering something unique without exceeding the premium segment:

• 2023 Neethlingshof Estate Chardonnay Unwooded: Trellised and varying heights, these grapes are grown in a combination of iron rich soils—producing higher yields, meanwhile maintaining concentrated flavor intensity. A beautiful pale lemon appearance matches the zesty aroma blended with strong notes of ripe pear and kiwi. Versatile pairings include brie pizza, butternut squash risotto, or prosciutto and melon. It’s noteworthy that this wine is new to market as of April 2023, reflecting a strictly VEGAN production with again qualities.

• 2022 Spier Signature Sauvignon Blanc: Fermented cool in stainless steel, preserving freshness and intense tropical aroma—green fig, ripe pineapple and peppery notes. Although a warm climate grape, costal breezes provide a cooling effect, producing fruit with balanced acidity. Meanwhile, winemaking techniques drive complexity and minimize oxidation. This wine is most refreshing served chilled; Pairs well with lighter dishes, seafood or enjoyed as aperitif.

• 2021 Spier Signature Merlot: Produced by Heidi Dietstein, a virtuous winemaker with a specialty in high quality reds among other notable styles. Grapes are cultured in natural yeast to unlock the profile; After fermentation, 20% matured in French oak and 80% in stainless steel with French oak staves. Blended from various sub regions, the quintessential wine reflects a medium body and ruby red color. Dark berry notes against a chalky canvas with light floral bouquet. Bright, round palate and long finish.

• 2022 Neethlingshof Estate Pinotage: A show-stopping wine style and flagship of its region. Full body, deep ruby color; Matured in a combination of French, and American oak (60/40). Pronounced aromas of plum and berries with undertones of smoke and coffee. On the palate, notes of black cherry and dark chocolate drive a long finish and elegant tannins. Pairs well with red meats, flavorful sauces—teriyaki and barbecue. Otherwise, beet salad, rich cheeses and chocolate desserts. Produced adhering to strict VEGAN guidelines. New to market in April of 2023 with aging qualities of 5-10 years.

A few less commercialized, however accessible, wine notes and recommendations from my recollection of South African ETFs…

• 2021 Haute Cabriere Pinot Noir Rosé, Franschhoek:  Perhaps the most unique and inspirational rosé you’ll ever taste, seeking this wine over and over. Reaching Franschhoek was like a fairytale after a long wet drive—through the winding roads of Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve. Revealed beneath the fog, a stunning view of the Franschhoek Valley is a memory locked in time.

• Dornier, Stellenbosch: A family-owned boutique winery. In addition to the estate’s unique architecture, the founder is also an artist.
  • 2022 Dornier Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc: A quality crafted and tropical Chenin, palatable with a variety of meals or snacks.
  • 2021 Dornier Estate Semillon: The golden color alone will stop you in your tracks, supported by stimulating sensory of rich apples and honeydew. Also enjoyed with light snacks.

• 2020 De Kombuys Chardonnay Oaked, Klein Karoo: Pungent nose, olive, dairy. Light citrus, lemon, not silky or buttery but clean. Finishes dry with a slightly spicy tinge. Paired with a Waygu burger (The Marbled Waygu in Mossel Bay).

• Rijks Touch Pinotage, Tulbagh: A light oak and cocoa forward, medium body red—the quintessential robust South African varietal. Paired with a late dinner on a cooler evening after a very long flight across the Atlantic; Roasted garlic olive oil and bread, Wood-fire Roasted Scallops, Crispy Lamb Cutlets, Lasagna, Torched Meringue. (ZenZero in Camps Bay, Cape Town).

• Piekenierskloof Old Vine Collection, Swartland: Boasting an expansive award-winning portfolio, these wines are produced from untrellised bush vines, some of the oldest vineyard plantings in South Africa. Despite lower yields, this approach showcases concentrated characteristics, regional heritage and a tradition in sustainable viticulture.
  • 2019 Piekenierskloof Johan van Zyl Old Vine Pinotage: Dark, full-bodied and tannic. I keep this expression on hand, aging in my personal cellar.

• Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines: Boasting 50+ five-star ratings from Platter’s South African Wine Guide and crafted by the winemaking duo Chris & Andrea Mullineux.
  • Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland: This was a gateway glass that I enjoyed for many years before visiting the Western Cape. An easy favorite among the variety of Chenin’s availalbe in the larger market. I generally keep this expression on hand across one or two vintages or seek older stock—keen to explore secondary aromas from short-term aging.

This is only a drop in the barrel when in comes to what’s being enjoyed around the world—expressed from the diverse terrain and floral kingdom of South African wine regions.

“What’s under your nose?“
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