An Easy to find (ETF) Alternative to Riesling

I firmly believe that wine is best enjoyed when thoughtfully paired with food. When balanced, wine and food pairings can elevate any dining or snacking experience. Meanwhile, some wines are capable of defining a journey—like following a map to the indicated location of treasure.

(Enter VERMENTINO, slightly chilled).

An arguably indigenous Italian grape, Vementino is truly a gem—rarely found outside of Sardinia, Liguria, and Tuscany regions. Characteristically acidic, this wine is generally soft and light, whereas Riesling expressions range from delicate to full, powerful styles. The dilemma when pairing Riesling with food is selecting the appropriate style; More often than not, one must navigate the overchoice phenomenon when dining out, or whilst shopping for wine. Although an Off-dry Riesling offers versatility, styles drastically vary depending on terroir—growing region, production method and other aspects of culture. Of course, all wines reflect characteristics of terroir, however Rieslings are considered to be among the most terroir-expressive. Sometimes, it’s the most interesting and expressive features of wine that present culinary challenges. After all, pairing food and wine is culinary science.

Where overchoice presents a challenge, Vermentino is Occams’s razor—the most elegant, easy to find (ETF) alternative to otherwise commonplace, Off-dry Riesling styles. Both Vermentino and Off-dry Riesling options pair well seafood, lean and light meats—pork or duck, spicy dishes and also herbaceous flavors. Recalling the shared characteristic of higher acidity, these wines are both excellent at tampering heat while simultaneously highlighting fragrant garden aromas. Where Vementino excels in comparison is unmistakably striking—taking center stage with complexity and depth, while using supporting roles to bolster its presence. Consider balancing the cast, choosing a food pairing with limited characters, apropos to advancing the culinary plot. Vermentino can absolutely stand on its own, however commands interaction, as if the wine itself intends to motivate an audience.

ETF, 100% Vementino options that will get your attention:

  • Tenuta del Buonamico “Vivi” Vermentino, Tuscana IGT: This option stands out in any boutique wine shop, flaunting a slender bottleneck and high-contrast packaging. In the glass, a stunning golden wheat color. Followed by a bountiful nose—ripe pear is front and center on a canvas of raspberry notes with hints of rosemary. Delicate grapefruit flavor and a subtle lime finish covers the palate. This was paired with garlic soup dumplings and pork gyoza, served with the favored and original Momofuku Chili Crunch.
  • Antinori, Tenuta Guado al Tasso Vermentino Bolgheri DOC: If you’re familiar with designations, you’ll recognize that this is produced under strict regulation and quality standards. A persistent Vementino, complimenting high quality pasta, olive oils and herbaceous cuisine. This pairing included fried artichokes with a sage-lemon aioli, pork sausage cavatelli with leafy greens and sun-dried tomato cream. The Bolgheri DOC was created in 1984, originally including only rosé and white wine styles. Despite the shorter history compared to other designated regions, Bolgheri produces highly respected Vermentino grapes that are also used in interesting white wine blends.
  • Vermentino di Sardegna DOC: Located in the Tyrreanian Sea, it would be remiss to exclude this prominent designation—a mountainous island of vineyards, west of the Italian peninsula. Styles can range from still and dry to sparkling and sweet.
    • Argiolas Costamolino, Vermentino di Sardegna: A topical profile from Sardinia’s leading wine producer and vanguard in modern viticulture.
    • Mario Bagella, Vermentino di Sardegna ‘Olieddu’: Certified Organic; Fermented using only indigenous yeast and briefly on the lees for mid-palate appeal. Aged 8-12 months in steel, no fining or filtration.

What’s under your nose?
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Easy to Find (ETF) Wines, September 2024

Central Valley Region, Chilean Wines:

There is no doubt that coastal regions provide the most stunning, beneficial and desirable locations for grape growing. Considered to be “New World” among wine producing regions, these Chilean expressions are a journey across steep slopes and coastal mountains—sipping from north to south through an oenophile’s paradise. The ripest grapes in a moderate-to-cool climate reflect the balance of maritime winds and sunny afternoons. Fellow geography and weather geeks will recognize this as the upwelling of maritime winds driven by the Humbolt Current—a high pressure ecosystem where arctic and tropical elements collide. Disguised as arid conditions traversing the South American coast, a nutrient-rich fog is continuously basted over dry surface currents.

These ETF wines are produced from vines in nestled valleys and foothills, rooted in the nutrient-rich, granitic and well-draining terrain—some of the earth’s most beautiful and remote destinations.

  • Vistamar Eje White Blend Grand Reserve, Casablanca/Aconcagua Valley: An overlooked single estate wine, lurking within the semi-premium segment. While the Casablanca sub-region is a sought after source of grapes for many wineries, Vistamar’s coastal sector exemplifies quality. Where vines are digging deeper into the soil for nutrients, a high-density vineyard approach commands flavor and concentrated aromas. Expect minerality, citrus and subtle vanilla notes; The blend includes slow ripening grapes—Chardonnay and Viognier. Look for small production expressions from Viña Vistamar, namely the Block portfolio, led by the multipotentialite winemaker Daniela Salinas.
  • Carmen Single Vine Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca: A refreshing Sauvignon Blanc with oceanic influence, hints of salinity. Produced within an east-west-oriented valley, the single vineyard wine expresses a renaissance where the region’s coastal viticulture was pioneered.
  • Los Vascos Rose, Colchagua/Rapel Valley: An olfactory explosion of ripe fruits and delicate florals. However on the palate, this cabernet-based rose is one of the most creamy and gentle. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Carmenere, 5% Syrah.
  • Chateau Los Boldos Carmenère Tradition, Rapel Valley: Carmenère (pronounced “car-men-nair”) is generally considered a “rare grape”, although making a comeback among oenophiles. Characteristically herbaceous in aroma, the medium body wine features age-worthy acidic qualities—maintaining its structure. A round texture is accompanied by subtle notes of dark fruit and chocolate.
  • Chateau Los Boldos Cabernet Grand Reserve, Cachapoal/Rapel Valley: A tannic expression balanced by malolactic fermentation. The intense ruby red color compliments flavor intensity of dark fruit balanced by leather and smoke. The texture and complexity is improved by naturally occurring medium-chain fatty acids in the Cabernet grapes. Best enjoyed with strong cheeses and cold cuts. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 10-months in French oak.

Chile’s wine industry is among the New World’s youngest, experiencing its renaissance in the recent 1980’s (or, otherwise yesterday). However, enjoying these fruits is laborious; Once an engineering feat to establish a system of wells for harvesting water, Central Chile’s climate continues to face environmental challenges. For geeks that drink—higher atmospheric pressure and sub-tropic displacement are reducing precipitation, which impacts grapevine development depending on timing. Challenges aside, Chilean producers are pumping out interesting wine portfolios across all pricing segments. Keep an eye on the Central Valley for emerging market Chilean ETFs.

What’s under your nose?
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Easy to Find (ETF) Wines, September 2023

The first installment of ETF Wines (not to be confused with exchange-traded funds) is the result of a capricious request; I was asked to guide a casual blind tasting experience as the summer season drew to a close. After visiting South Africa’s Western Cape and Klein Karoo during the spring of 2023, I had already began composing a shortlist of expressions from a few wine houses and smaller producers that I had visited and enjoyed.

However, my aspiration to share some of the wines I’d recently discovered was slightly subdued. Unfortunately the impromptu tasting event, hosted by a local business, was limited to only available selections from a big box retailer. Swallowing my pride, I realized that an “Easy to Find” format is something that the casual or occasional wine drinker might actually be missing. To be clear, there’s nothing wrong with buying wine from larger retailers; For the average consumer, there are quality, new-to-market and affordable wines available at most local grocery stores and beverage outlets. Anyway, if you’re simply having fun with friends or just beginning to explore South African wines, any of these ETFs might be your gateway glass to a lekker palate. For a blind tasting these styles were easy to identify, offering something unique without exceeding the premium segment:

  • 2023 Neethlingshof Estate Chardonnay Unwooded: Trellised and varying heights, these grapes are grown in a combination of iron rich soils—producing higher yields, meanwhile maintaining concentrated flavor intensity. A beautiful pale lemon appearance matches the zesty aroma blended with strong notes of ripe pear and kiwi. Versatile pairings include brie pizza, butternut squash risotto, or prosciutto and melon. It’s noteworthy that this wine is new to market as of April 2023, reflecting a strictly VEGAN production with again qualities.
  • 2022 Spier Signature Sauvignon Blanc: Fermented cool in stainless steel, preserving freshness and intense tropical aroma—green fig, ripe pineapple and peppery notes. Although a warm climate grape, costal breezes provide a cooling effect, producing fruit with balanced acidity. Meanwhile, winemaking techniques drive complexity and minimize oxidation. This wine is most refreshing served chilled; Pairs well with lighter dishes, seafood or enjoyed as aperitif.
  • 2021 Spier Signature Merlot: Produced by Heidi Dietstein, a virtuous winemaker with a specialty in high quality reds among other notable styles. Grapes are cultured in natural yeast to unlock the profile; After fermentation, 20% matured in French oak and 80% in stainless steel with French oak staves. Blended from various sub regions, the quintessential wine reflects a medium body and ruby red color. Dark berry notes against a chalky canvas with light floral bouquet. Bright, round palate and long finish.
  • 2022 Neethlingshof Estate Pinotage: A show-stopping wine style and flagship of its region. Full body, deep ruby color; Matured in a combination of French, and American oak (60/40). Pronounced aromas of plum and berries with undertones of smoke and coffee. On the palate, notes of black cherry and dark chocolate drive a long finish and elegant tannins. Pairs well with red meats, flavorful sauces—teriyaki and barbecue. Otherwise, beet salad, rich cheeses and chocolate desserts. Produced adhering to strict VEGAN guidelines. New to market in April of 2023 with aging qualities of 5-10 years.

A few less commercialized, however accessible, wine notes and recommendations from my recollection of South African ETFs…

  • 2021 Haute Cabriere Pinot Noir Rosé, Franschhoek:  Perhaps the most unique and inspirational rosé you’ll ever taste, seeking this wine over and over. Reaching Franschhoek was like a fairytale after a long wet drive—through the winding roads of Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve. Revealed beneath the fog, a stunning view of the Franschhoek Valley is a memory locked in time.
  • Dornier, Stellenbosch: A family-owned boutique winery. In addition to the estate’s unique architecture, the founder is also an artist.
    • 2022 Dornier Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc: A quality crafted and tropical Chenin, palatable with a variety of meals or snacks.
    • 2021 Dornier Estate Semillon: The golden color alone will stop you in your tracks, supported by stimulating sensory of rich apples and honeydew. Also enjoyed with light snacks.
  • 2020 De Kombuys Chardonnay Oaked, Klein Karoo: Pungent nose, olive, dairy. Light citrus, lemon, not silky or buttery but clean. Finishes dry with a slightly spicy tinge. Paired with a Waygu burger (The Marbled Waygu in Mossel Bay).
  • Rijks Touch Pinotage, Tulbagh: A light oak and cocoa forward, medium body red—the quintessential robust South African varietal. Paired with a late dinner on a cooler evening after a very long flight across the Atlantic; Roasted garlic olive oil and bread, Wood-fire Roasted Scallops, Crispy Lamb Cutlets, Lasagna, Torched Meringue. (ZenZero in Camps Bay, Cape Town).
  • Piekenierskloof Old Vine Collection, Swartland: Boasting an expansive award-winning portfolio, these wines are produced from untrellised bush vines, some of the oldest vineyard plantings in South Africa. Despite lower yields, this approach showcases concentrated characteristics, regional heritage and a tradition in sustainable viticulture.
    • 2019 Piekenierskloof Johan van Zyl Old Vine Pinotage: Dark, full-bodied and tannic. I keep this expression on hand, aging in my personal cellar.
  • Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines: Boasting 50+ five-star ratings from Platter’s South African Wine Guide and crafted by the winemaking duo Chris & Andrea Mullineux.
    • Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland: This was a gateway glass that I enjoyed for many years before visiting the Western Cape. An easy favorite among the variety of Chenin’s availalbe in the larger market. I generally keep this expression on hand across one or two vintages or seek older stock—keen to explore secondary aromas from short-term aging.

This is only a drop in the barrel when in comes to what’s being enjoyed around the world—expressed from the diverse terrain and floral kingdom of South African wine regions.

What’s under your nose?
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